Kjölur highland route interior F35 in Iceland (Gullfoss to Varmahlíð - Blönduós)

Route F35 through the middle of Iceland, usually called the Kjölur route, is unique among Iceland’s Highland roads in being the only one you can traverse in an ordinary two-wheel drive car. Running between Gullfoss in the south and the Ringroad near Varmahlíð, at 200 km. long Kjölur is the shorter of the two inland routes across Iceland.

Of course two-wheel drive hire cars are not allowed on F-roads at all for insurance reasons; so that’s out of the question. And if you love and care for your own little Yaris, Avensis or Passat then it’s probably best to leave it at home. If, however, you are in someone else’s car, then have a blast!

Despite its convenient ‘unique selling point’ there is little doubt that you will be more comfortable and less prone to mishaps if you stick to a decent 4×4 vehicle along the Kjölur route. That way, things like mud and washboard gravel won’t be able to ruin your day.

As with all Highland roads in Iceland, Kjölur is only accessible in the summer, opening usually in late May or early June. You can check road conditions before you leave on the roads administration website. You should also study SafeTravel.is carefully. We also recommend you to read our article about driving in Iceland.

There are many reasons for visiting the Highlands; most of them involving the desire to ‘get away from it all’ (whatever all of it may be) and to see some of the only wilderness in Europe.

There really isn’t a lot up there – and that’s of course the biggest attraction!

The Kjölur route starts conveniently right by Gullfoss and winds its way up between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers and right past Hveravellir; a bubbling, glooping, churning geothermal area you’d be mad not to stop off at especially to take a refreshing dip in the hot spring. There is accommodation here if you want to stay the night, and plenty to explore on foot.

Before that, you will pass Lake Hvitarvatn and its surroundings. Langjokull glacier, Thorisjokull glacier, Eiriksjokull glacier, Hrutfell mountain, Hagavatn lake and Hvitarvatn lake.

Langjokull glacier

The glacier is roughly parallel to the direction of the country's active volcanic zone (see volcanism in Iceland): north-east to south-west. It is about 50 km long and 15 to 20 km wide, and has a slightly narrower point roughly between the lake Hvitarvatn on the Kjolur mountain road to the east and the Thristapajokull glacier to the west, near another smaller glacier, Eiriksjokull glacier, which is not quite connected to Langjokull glacier.

It is the nearest large glacier to Reykjavik. The area of the glacier includes some mountains, e.g. Jarlhettur ("The earl´s hat") on the east side of Langjokull glacier, a palagonitic mountain range, which originated in a fissure eruption under a glacier during Ice Age. The mountain Skridufell (1235 m) is situated on the east, above lake Hvitarvatn. Other mountains on the eastern side of Langjokull glacier are Fjallkirkja (1177 m), Thursaborg (1290 m) and Peturshorn (1370 m). A little to the east of Fjallkirkja is the hut of the Icelandic Glacier Research Society (Joklarannsóknarfelag), which includes scientists as well as interested amateurs.

Lake Hvitarvatn

Hvitarvatn (also known as Hvitarlon) is a lake in the Highlands of Iceland and the source of glacial river Hvita (e. White river), Hvitarvatn means 'White river lake'. It is located 45 km northeast of Gullfoss waterfall. It's surface is about 30 km² and it's greatest depth is 84 m. It is a magnificent experience to sail on the lake and the view is amazing.

Langjokull glacier is next to the lake and it goes all the way into the lake. The scenery is very beautiful. This is a place you have to visit. You can take a day tour and see the glacier and its magnificent surroundings.

You can also take a hike on the glacier and the view from there is fantastic.

http://www.glacierlake.is
Teléfono +354 8221006
e-mail info@glaciarlake.is

Hveravellir is a unique nature reserve situated on the Kjolur route in the middle of the west highlands between the glaciers Langjökull and Hofsjökull.

Hveravellir is one of the most beautiful geothermal areas in the world with smoking fumarolees and beautifully shaped with sky blue, boiling water. It is a special experience to have a look around, whether it is in the summer or winter.

As it continues north (assuming you choose to drive south to north…it’s not a one way street), the Kjölur route wends its way through the mini ‘lake district’ around the Blanda river and the Blöndulón reservoir before emerging onto the Route 1 highway (after a short drive along Route 731) in the town of Blönduós, North Iceland.

Blöndulón is one of Iceland’s biggest lakes and was created from scratch as recently as 1984 and not finished until 1991. It is a reservoir for a hydro electric power station and is fed by Blanda one of Iceland’s longest and biggest rivers and one of the best places to catch salmon in all of Iceland, which is already famous for its salmon. This remains true to this day, despite the fact that the dam has stopped salmon spawning as far upstream as they once did.

Anyway, this was not an article about salmon; it was about exploring the Icelandic Highlands. So get out there and do just that…but be careful!

Activities in Hveravellir: 

There are a number of other walking routes in the vicinity, for example to Rjupnafell, Thjofadalir, Jökulkrok and up to or on to the glacier Langjökull. Longer routes, for example to Hvitarvatn in the south as well as over the old route over Kjalhraun or along the borders of the glacier Langjökull, are also available. A fascinating route is also along the northern part of Langjökull and through Hallmundarhraun to Husafell. A further nice route leads around Hrutfell from where one can enjoy an extraordinary view over the area. There are an almost endless number of routes to choose from and everyone is sure to find something to suit their taste.

There is a horse rental at Hveravellir. A number of horse riding trails can be found in the surrounding area. One can choose between tours lasting a few hours, a whole day or even a number of days. The Icelandic horse is used to this rough terrain as it was the only mode of transportation over this route when the first settlers arrived in the country.

Geothermal pool at Hveravellir:

The geothermal pool at Hveravellir is unique. Both hot and cold water flows to the pool, which makes it easy to regulate the temperature of the water in the pool. Over 20 people can comfortably bathe in the pool at the same time. The pool and its entire surroundings are magnificent, offering a beautiful view of the geothermal area, Kjalhraun lava field and Langjökull. There is nothing that can compare to a dip into the pool after a days hike in the highlands.

3 Days - Hiking Route 

The hiking distance is 42 - 44 km. At the starting or finishing point, Hvitarnes, is the oldest hut (1930) of the Icelandic Tourist Association for 30 persons.  

Day 1. The first leg from Hvitarnes is about 12 km long and ends at the Thverbrekknamuli hut with an ascent of 100 m.  

The Hvitarnes hut was the first to be built by the Iceland Touring Association in 1930.  It is located 425 metres above mean sea level.  It comprises the ground floor with two sleeping rooms, a kitchen and the entrance, the attic with mattresses on the floor and a small room.  In the kitchen is a gas-stove and a log-stove, but no utensils.  

A WC is in a separate house and the warden lives in another small house.  The view from the hut is breathtaking, and this hut is the starting or end spot of hikes on the ancient Kjolur Route.

The Thverbrekknamuli hut is situated southeast of Mt Hrutfell, near river Fulakvisl.  It is near the middle of the hiking trail on the ancient Kjolur Route.  

The hut was built in 1980 and accommodates 20 people.  The house is heated with gas and an oil-stove.  There are no utensils in the house and visitors have to take garbage with them. A WC is near the hut and a latrine for winter travellers a bit further away. The fifth bridge across river Fulakvisl was built in 2005.  The others have either been swept away by floods or not withstood the weight of the winter snow.

Day 2. The second leg ends at the hut in Thjofadalir after a 14-15 km hike with an ascent of 100 m. 

The small hut in valleys Thjofadalir was built in 1939 to accommodate 12 people.  It is located at the foot of Mt Raudkollur and the hillock Throskuldur is nearby. It is on the ancient trail across the Kjolur highlands between the northern and southern parts of the country. It has a tiny entrance, a ground floor and an attic above half of the ground floor. There are no utensils in the house.  

The latrine is a short distance away from the house. Visitors have to take all garbage with them. The environment offers short and pleasant hikes, i.e. Mt Hrutfell, Fagrahlid and jokulkrokur at the edge of glacier Langjokull. Mt Raudkollur and Oddnyjarhnjukur are also worthy goals.

Day 3. The third leg ends at the hut in Hveravellir after a hike of 12 km and an ascent of still another 100 m.  There are several booklets available on this hiking route. For further information on the route the Travel Guide is at hand.

Iceland24, Johanna
© 2015 June 2015

Sprengisandur: Route F26 or Sprengisandsleið - Iceland

Route F26 or Sprengisandsleið is a highland gravel road in Iceland, running through the Sprengisandur area between the glaciers Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull.With its 200 km, it is the longest of the Icelandic highland roads. Its southern end is at the lake Þórisvatn, to the northeast of the volcano Hekla, and its northern end is the lower part of the valley of the river Skjálfandafljót, to the southwest of lake Mývatn.

Featuring the most desolate terrain found in Iceland, Sprengisandur is the bleak highland desert east between Hofsjökull – the rounded icecap marking Iceland’s geographical centre – and Vatnajökull’s northwestern front.

In earlier times, when people were more superstitious than they are nowadays and believed in ghosts, giants, elves and outlaws, the few who dared use this route rode as fast as possible through and sometimes exhausted their horses. The word for to exhaust in Icelandic is "sprengja", hence the name of the area.

Although providing something of a corridor in Viking times between Iceland’s northeastern settlements and the summer parliament at Þingvellir, crossing Sprengisandur was always a tough journey, the desert flooded in spring with melting snow and ice, yet too dry in summer to provide any grazing for horses. Indeed, most travellers preferred to take much longer coastal roads, and Sprengisandur was eventually abandoned as a route during the thirteenth century.

Traversed today by the F26, which begins northeast of Hekla and runs some 244km to the Ringroad at Goðafoss, the Sprengisandur route remains a challenging one, whose unbridged rivers and stark scenery provide an insight into medieval Iceland’s harsh living conditions. Sprengisandur’s southern gateway is marked by Hekla, north of which is the desolate, icy plateau between Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull.

The enduring image here is of nothingness: the glaciers and mountains that fringe the horizon seem a long way off, and the space in between is filled with mile after mile of grey sand, stones and rocks that have lain untouched for thousands of years.

PLANNING A TRIP

Exploring the Area

Hrauneyjar Highland Center, a year-round highland oasis at the southern terminus of the Sprengisandur Route, has two hotels and restaurants, an information desk, and the last gas station for the next 240km (149 miles). A trail map of the surrounding area is available at reception.

As a base, Hrauneyjar is best for travelers with their own 4WD transport. The Highland Center organizes tours only for groups, and the best local destinations -- such as Veiðivötn lakes, or the lovely Dynkur, a waterfall on the Þjórsá river -- are inaccessible to regular cars.

Veidivötn. Trout fishermen are particularly drawn to this idyllic and peaceful cluster of fifty volcanic crater lakes, located close to Landmannalaugar but accessed through Hrauneyjar on Route F228.

Fishing permits (2,000kr/day/$32/£16) and sleeping-bag accommodation (2,500kr/$40/£20 per person) in four bunk-style cottages are handled by Landmannahellir (tel. 893-8407; www.landmannahellir.is).

Nýidalur. An overnight stay at this remote desert outpost, combined with a day hike east to Vonarskarð pass, makes for a memorable episode along the Sprengisandur Route. Nýidalur is right on Route F26, about 100km (62 miles) from Hrauneyjar and 20km (12 miles) from the northwest corner of Vatnajökull.

Vonarskarð forms a dramatic saddle between Vatnajökull and the small glacier Tungnafellsjökull, and the hiking route skirts some restless geothermal fields. Sudden releases of glacial meltwater can make stream crossings difficult, so speak to the warden before setting out. Those just passing through Nýidalur can still take the short easy hike east to a nearby hill with panoramic views.

By Car

With its rough surfaces and hazardous river fords, Route F26 is only for rugged 4WD vehicles with good clearance. The road's opening date varies, but usually falls at the end of June. The Public Roads Administration (tel. 354-1777; www.vegag.is; May-Oct 8am-4pm; Nov-Apr 8am-5pm) continually monitors road conditions.

It is the longest stretch between the South and the North and is only passable by 4wd vehicles during summer. The obstacles enroute are rivers, which have to be forded and the water can be up to 1 meter or more (specially it's the 1 river crossing 5 km before you reach Nýidalur). For a person that is not an experienced off-road driver, anything smaller than Land Rover/Toyota Land Cruiser is not recommended at all.

They swell when it is warm, the glacial meltwater increases and when it also rains they become dangerous. The scenic beauty makes this route unforgettable.

Warning: Gas is not available on Route F26, and the gas stations at Hrauneyjar and Goðafoss are 240km (149 miles) apart (Unprepared drivers are often seen begging for fuel at Nýidalur).

Hiking

This part of the Interior offers a great variety of possibilities for short or long hikes. In most cases it depends on the individual traveller to decide which hillock or mountain is the best vantage point, or how far to go into the wilderness.

Long hikes require good planning, preparations, and physical fitness. The psychology has to be considered as well.

Sometimes the vast, barren landscapes, and the solitude overwhelme hikers, who are travelling alone and do not meet a soul for days on end.

By Bus

Reykjavík Excursions (tel. 562-1011; www.re.is) connects Landmannalaugar and lake Mývatn via the Sprengisandur Route from July 1 to August 24.

Departures from Mývatn are Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 8:30am, and departures from Landmannalaugar are Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday, also at 8:30am.

The full one-way trip lasts 10 hours and costs 8,000kr ($128/£64), with stops at Hrauneyjar, Nýidalur, and Skútustaðir, plus sightseeing breaks at the Aldeyjarfoss and Goðafoss waterfalls.

Passengers taking the bus from Mývatn to Landmannalaugar must wait until the following day for connections to Reykjavík and elsewhere.

Where to sleep

- Hotel Highland (Rte. 26, Hrauneyjar, In the area). Tel. +354 487-7750.

Walking into this high-end hotel and restaurant is a surreal transition from the wild and remote landscape outside. The Highland was a farm accommodation as recently as 2005, and some rooms are still transitioning design-wise, but you won't suffer for sheets with an insufficient thread count.

- Hrauneyjar Highland Center (Rte. 26, Hrauneyjar, In the area). Tel. +354 487-7782.

This hotel is adjoined to Hrauneyjar's gas station and information desk, and the Reykjavík Excursions bus through Sprengisandur stops here. The rooms are spartan but comfortable, and, if you've just come through the desert interior, the whole place is Shangri-La. Confusingly, 17 of the rooms -- which share a guest kitchen -- and the four apartments are located next to Hotel Highland but classified with the Highland Center.

Visitor Information

No specific tourist information office is assigned to the Sprengisandur Route, but regional offices in Hveragerði, Varmahlíð, Akureyri, and Mývatn can provide help.

The Hrauneyjar Highland Center (tel. 487-7782; www.hrauneyjar.is) is a useful resource, and the warden at Nýidalur (tel. 854-1194; July-Aug) -- while not responsible for helping non-guests -- is usually happy to answer questions.

Johanna & Sindri, Iceland24
April 2015

Geology of Iceland: Ice and Fire

Volcanic activity  

Iceland was formed from volcanic eruptions on the Mid-Atlantic ridge. Iceland was formed for about 24 million years. Iceland is the only place where you can stand on the ridge on dry land. That makes Iceland very special and a popular place for geologists to visit and do their researches.

The ridge separates the Eurasia and the American systems which are always going further away from each other. And that can trigger volcanoes or earthquakes. That, along with the hot spot that is under Iceland, makes the country highly active in volcanic activities. The hotspot is probably the reason for the island’s existence because the ridge alone could not have made such a large island. But if Iceland had only been formed by the hot spot it would like a lot similar to the Hawaiian islands. The hot spot is now situated under Vatnajökull.

As an example of Iceland's extreme volcanic activity, 1/3 of the magma that has erupted on the earth for the last 10.000 years came up in Iceland. And that is pretty much for such a small country. In Iceland, a volcano erupts every four years in average. The last eruption was in Grímsvötn on glacier Vatnajökull in the beginning of last November (2004). But that was only a small eruption. But we could see the smoke from it from our school.

Apart from the Mid-Atlantic ridge there are other fracture zones. You can see the fracture zones and the position of the Mid-Atlantic ridge on the picture above.

The picture is copied from the Icelandic weather web page www.vedur.is.

The red dot is a mark for the hot spot and the blue line is the Mid-Atlantic ridge.  The fracture zones are beside the Mid-Atlantic ridge in North and East.

Main volcanoes

In Iceland there are a lot of volcanoes (as maybe mentioned before). Some of them are greater and more famous than the others. Most of them are situated on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge but some of them are on the fracture zones.

The most famous volcano in Iceland, and one of the most famous in the world, is Hekla. Hekla is situated in the south of Iceland. Hekla has erupted 20 times since Iceland was settled and the last time she erupted was in the year 2000.

Although Hekla is the most famous, the most active one is Grímsvötn. Grímsvötn is situated in the middle of the Vatnajökull glacier. And as was mentioned before, Grímsvötn last time erupted in November 2004. Apart from Grímsvötn there are a lot of other volcanoes under Vatnajökull glacier. In Grímsvötn there is the most geothermal area in Iceland. And it is under the glacier. With every eruption in Grímsvötn there follows a glacier burst that comes out in the rivers that lie out from the glacier to the south coast of Iceland.

Can you see now why Iceland is called the land of fire and ice?

It is also interesting that in the neighbourhood of Reykjavík and the Reykjanes, where the majority of all people in Iceland (almost 200.000 people) live there are at least 5 volcanic systems with series of volcanoes that can all still erupt. And if we ought to calculate all the people in Iceland who live 50km or closer to a volcano system we would be dealing with a lot larger number.

Glaciers  

Iceland is widely known for its many glaciers. Some, if not most people have heard that the largest glacier in Europe is there. It is called Vatnajökull glacier (Water glacier). Iceland also has some other large glaciers like Langjökull (Long glacier), Hofsjökull (Temple glacier), Mýrdalsjökull (Swamp Valley Glacier), Drangajökull (Pillar of rock Glacier) and some other smaller glaciers. 11% of the whole country is covered with glaciers.

Glaciers form where more snow snows in the winter than can melt in the summer, so the existence of glaciers depends in the temperature.

Vatnajökull glacier, along with most of the other larger glaciers began to form about 2500 years ago. It began as little glaciers on three mountain peaks and slowly united with each other.

There are five icecaps in Iceland, Vatnajökull, Langjökull, Hofsjökull, Mýrdalsjökull and Drangajökull. From them some smaller glaciers “crawl” (glacier tongues). For a long period of time they can form valleys and fjords.

If Vatnajökull glacier would be swept away in an instant it would only form again on the highest mountains if the weather would be similar as it is for a long time.

On the other hand, the land under the glacier and near it would arise a lot. The area under the center of it would rise about 100 meters and about 50 meters under the edges. The area where we live in and the school is located in would rise about 20 meters and in 50 kilometers distance, the land would rise less than 5 meters. But that scenario would be very unlikely.

Some people believe that a scenario like that would have great influence on volcanoes under the glacier and lead to an era of a lot of volcanic activity where some volcanoes that are under it now could erupt at the same time.

Earthquakes 

In Iceland, a lot of earthquakes occur every day. You can see a map where the earthquakes of the last 48 hours have occurred in Iceland on the Icelandic weather page.

The last two large earthquakes occurred in Iceland in the year 2000. They were between 6,5 and 7 on Richter scale. Earthquakes in Iceland don’t go over 7 on Richter scale because of some unknown reason.

Peter, Iceland24
June 2014
Source: Water and Fire